Forbes’ Forays

Mike Forbes is a retired Royal Naval commander who lives in London with his wife. His first visit to Croatia was in the year 2000.

As I write it is only 24 hours before Jan and I fly out to Split for three weeks on our boat. We are hoping to take some friends to my preferred Dalmatian island, Vis. Whether we will sail into its fabulous natural harbour, anchor in one of the coves or secure to the mole in the lovely port of Komiza, I know not because so much depends on the weather.

Vis

For a former naval Brit, Vis has a special excitement. The British held the island for a few years in the early part of the nineteenth century when Captain (later Admiral) Hoste with a small squadron of Royal Navy ships chased the French out in 1811. The little island at the entrance to Vis harbour is named Hoste after him. He also founded a cricket club which still plays to this day. Under the terms of the carve-up of Europe by the Great Powers after the defeat of Napoleon in 1815, Vis and the rest of Dalmatia was ceded to the Austro-Hungarian empire. The island is well-known to naval historians for other reasons. The Battle of Vis of 1866 is regarded as the world’s first sea battle between iron-clad warships, when the Italians were trying to capture the island. The Austrian navy, based at Pula, was alerted by new-fangled telegraph and sailed to engage the Italian fleet off the north coast of Vis. In an action lasting from 11am until dusk, the Italian ships were beaten – several were sunk - and withdrew back to Ancona. The Austrian admiral, Wilhelm Tegetthoff,was treated as a hero and promoted, while his Italian counterpart was stripped of his rank and discharged.

I mentioned before that we started to learn Croatian at the London-based Croatian Language School. After a few lessons, Jan and I were at Covent Garden for the Tchaikovsky opera ‘Eugene Onegin’, sung in Russian, another slav language. At one point Onegin sings of his love for Tatijana, and I heard the word “Tatijanu….”. “Feminine accusative!” I whispered triumphantly to Jan, causing a ripple of ssh’es from our neighbours! We were not thrown out, though!

Yes, I do find the language difficult but at least with Croatian what you see is what you say, unlike English! We are blessed with an understanding but firm ‘profesorica’ in Linda Rabuzin at the Croatian Language School. Croatia could not have a better unofficial ambassadress in London.

More next time on Vis, my favourite island.

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