Forbes’ Forays

Mike Forbes is a retired Royal Naval commander who lives in London with his wife. His first visit to Croatia was in the year 2000.

"In my last column I wrote about the island of Vis, and its resonance for a former naval Brit. Apart from the events of the nineteenth century, the island played a significant role in the second World War. After Italy capitulated to the Allies in 1943, Vis became an Allied forward base from which the Nazis who had occupied most of the Dalmatian islands were harried by sea and commando attacks. Three years ago we hired one of the restored and cut-down, VW Beetle cars and drove round Vis, calling at Komiza and then visiting the cave high up on the mountain of Hum in which Josip Broz, or Marshal Tito, set up his home and headquarters for a few months when he was brought to Vis in a Royal Navy destroyer in June 1944.

Beetle

On Komiza’s mole you can see the memorial to British seamen of Coastal Forces of the Second World War. The motor torpedo and gunboats, based at Komiza, harried enemy shipping passing through the islands; often they would rest up in coves during the day, camouflaged by leaves and branches, and make their attacks by night.. Locals will talk wistfully of the ‘English Airfield’ which was built on the central plain, destroying some of the best vineyards on the island, mainly to provide an emergency landing ground for mostly American B17 bombers based in Italy and attacking the heavily defended oilfields of south-eastern Europe. Hundreds of damaged Allied aircraft made forced landings and thousands of aircrew saved. The runway has long been returned to vines but prominent markers show where it used to be.

Komiza Mole

Vis is now peaceful, the main activity being the production of wine and tourism. Every time we sail into the marvellous harbour of Vis we make a point of visiting the shop where Bruno Gesman crafts a wonderful selection of leather goods. I have always regarded Bruno as the Hans Sachs of Vis, and it was no surprise to hear recently that Bruno and Sanja are now also running a 'Healthy Living House' for agro-tourism at Marinje Zemlje in the south of the island.

Bruno’s Shop

Perhaps that is enough about Vis for the time being. After all there are hundreds of other beautiful islands. . . . . . ."

TOP