Forbes’ Forays

Mike Forbes is a retired Royal Naval commander who lives in London with his wife. His first visit to Croatia was in the year 2000.

The Island of Hvar

Anyone sailing a boat out of Split is almost bound to find the island of Hvar in its way. This long, thin strip of mountainous land lies like a roadblock across the route that a navigator trying to get to Dubrovnik might plan. Some 67 kilometres long and positioned like a compass needle pointing east, you cannot ignore Hvar - and why would anyone want to do that?

Pokrovenik

Like so many Dalmatian islands, Hvar has something for everyone. From the sophisticated bustle of Hvar Town - you might spot international celebrities there - where superyachts enjoy priority over lesser vessels, to the deserted coves and bays such as Pokrivenik on the north coast, all tastes and lifestyles are catered for. I cannot claim a favourite; I recall fun and games in the crowded anchorage of Vinogradisce, swimming ashore wearing swim shoes and a smile on the naturist island of Zecevo and enjoying the first and last nights in Croatia in Sucuraj - at the eastern end of the island - when on our way to change crews in Neum, Bosnia-Herzegovina.

One of the geological peculiarities of the otherwise hilly island is its low-lying peninsula, with its forty or so coves and bays, which protrudes into the Hvar Channel towards Brac. The base of the peninsula is marked by two lovely small towns, Stari Grad and Vrboska. I never tire of going into either of these ports but wonder sometimes whether Stari Grad (Old Town) would benefit by reverting to its former Greek name, Pharos.

A stop in Hvar is not complete without a visit to the Pakleni islands a mile or so off Hvar's western end, Cape Pelegrin. Good shelter is always available whichever wind is blowing and, again, you have the option to be one of the crowd with lots of other boats or find solitude for a quiet evening on your own.

So perhaps a navigator bound for Dubrovnik would do better to explore Hvar instead.

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